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Searching for a car



Searching for a car
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Renton7
Mayuko Chigasaki


Joined: 20 Sep 2007
Posts: 909
Location: Area 11 (Western Sydney, Australia)

PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 10:49 pm    Post subject: Searching for a car Reply with quote
Hey all.

I'm looking at not buying Anime for once and buying my first car. I'm not one for cars so I don't know what's out there. Although what I want is sorta specific. I want little Hatchback that is square and box like, definately not rounded. And a maximum price range of $5000, and year model >1994.

Cars I've looked at include:
- Honda Civic
- Nissan Pulsar
- Toyota Corolla

The manufacturer and model would be a nice reply lol. Thanks in advance. Very Happy
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redacidman
Mayuko Chigasaki


Joined: 23 Jul 2006
Posts: 973

PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 11:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
you might be lucky to find a 199x model for $5,000 though i got my doubt's you will get 1 at that price...


at that price range and lower 70's and 80's model cars...


most early 90's model ricers will cost you a bit of money, out of your price range i think..

i'd look at spending $2,000 or lower for the car itself as you likely need to put in $2,000-$3,000 to get it road worthy and legal...
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Doraemon


Joined: 09 Oct 2005
Posts: 92
Location: Brisbane

PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 8:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
my 96 S2 VS Acclaim only cost me $6500 from a dealer, so i think you'd be able to quite easily find a mid nineties car for around the 5K mark Laughing
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StorminNorman
Gillard-chan


Joined: 15 Aug 2001
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Location: Tolmekia

PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 8:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
You won't get "small and box-like" and "later than 1994" in the same car. They stopped making that kind of hatchback in about 1989.

Have you looked at the Hyundai Excel?
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Doraemon


Joined: 09 Oct 2005
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Location: Brisbane

PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 10:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
ah thats an awesome little car my mum has one and it's never failed! Surprised
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Slykura
Madman Staff


Joined: 13 Jan 2001
Posts: 13610

PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 11:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Any 6th Generation Honda Civic will be a great car. Solid and squeakily clean, they are the last ones to be manufactured in Japan and are very reliable. They are also quite nice to look at.

You won't find one for less than 10,000 though, but look at it this way, the solid build and stability will mean that the resell value will be relatively high.

Corolla's are nice, and solid too.

I highly recommend you AVOID Nissan Pulsars like the plague. The only good one ever built was the SSS and they are rather old these days. They're suspension is crap too.

Either way I really wouldn't spend less than 10,000 on a car. buying a car that's sub 5000 is asking for trouble. You will find that most of them will be third hand rather than second hand, this will mean that you'll be spending more money on it in the long run. A higher initial cost will always benefit you in the long run.
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Tachikoma
Shiki Tohno


Joined: 21 Aug 2003
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Location: Section-9, Melbourne

PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 1:39 pm    Post subject: Re: Searching for a car Reply with quote
Renton7 wrote:
Cars I've looked at include:
- Honda Civic
- Nissan Pulsar
- Toyota Corolla

That's a good list, and I suggest you to stick with it. Nissans seem to be ok, but a Mitzi might be a good substitute.

And if you want to save a buck or two (multiplied by a 1000), buy through a private seller. The catch is, you must know what you're buying and able to pick out potential problems. Having said that, dealers can just as dodgy as private sellers. www.carsales.com.au is a good start.

I can mostly speak for the Civic range - the thing you should look out for with those models is the CV joints. They are expensive to replace, even for old cars. If you hear or feel knock(s) as you take a u-turn, then it might be a CV joint problem - so don't buy it. You can also check by looking at the rubber seal where the axle meets the front wheel (just turn the wheel as far as it can go and look from the front). The rubber seal should have no cracks and grease all over it. A single CV joint can be anywhere between $300 and $500 to replace... I know too many people who got shafted because of this. This goes for other makes and models, too - particularly front wheel drives.
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StorminNorman
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Joined: 15 Aug 2001
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 4:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
If it were up to me, I'd recommend against front-wheel drive at all. Unfortunately it's impossible to get a small hatch that's also RWD unless you start heading back into the early-mid 1980s at the latest, and even then you'll be charged through the nose for one.

Demand for RWD small cars is high because they are <s>awesome hoonmobiles</s> known for their exceptional handling. I heard a rumour last year that Toyota may reintroduce a RWD Corolla, though. That would be pretty fun.
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Tony
浜崎 あゆみ


Joined: 11 May 2002
Posts: 15601
Location: Melbourne

PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I'd save up some more money. Any car that's under $5000 is going to be a piece of crap with hundreds of thousands of k's done on it that will end up breaking down and costing you money. Something around 7-10 grand is safer.
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CG
Yukino Miyazawa


Joined: 30 Aug 2005
Posts: 8519
Location: Brisvegas, QLD

PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 5:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Why but when you can just steal one? It's honestly not that difficult.
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~:Sakura:~
Sylia Stingray


Joined: 12 Aug 2003
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Location: Australia, Home of the Muffin

PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
My car only cost me $3000 and it's awesome. (Old and very un-stylish but awesome).

I'd recommend a SECA. Probably around a 1990 model or something. They are old and thus go for around $2000-$4000 depending on condition and stuffs but they're very reliable cars ( I hear ). And small and maneuverable.
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Tachikoma
Shiki Tohno


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 6:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
My mate got a mid-90s Accord for 6k and is in mint condition. I bought my 1990 Civic nearly 9 years ago for that much (was worth 9 - 10k at the time) and never had any issues with so far. Here is a tip: buy from old people.
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StorminNorman
Gillard-chan


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 9:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
"It was owned by a lovely old lady who only drove it down the shops once a week and to church on Sundays..."
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Mr Waffle
TEH WAFFLES!!11!


Joined: 18 Aug 2003
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 10:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I've seen a line like that on an ad for a Nissan Skyline once... Laughing
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Renton7
Mayuko Chigasaki


Joined: 20 Sep 2007
Posts: 909
Location: Area 11 (Western Sydney, Australia)

PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 11:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Thanks for all you help guys and girls. Very Happy . By the sounds of I need a bit more money hahaha. But you have all given me some idea in one way or another, what are the does and don't and the things to look out for. Thanks again Very Happy

PS. If anyone is still willing to throw any ideas or more things out there, I'm all for it lol.
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kbz333
Kiichi Goto


Joined: 25 Feb 2006
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2008 5:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
always and i mean ALWAYS check round the front and back windows (the rubbers) leaks/cracks/etc, rust under the carpet in the boot - and for holes too...rust along the top of the doors (those silver edging things Embarassed ) and don't ever fall for the "it's only ever been owned by an old lady" story...
inside the car doors too - basically you have to give it a thorough going over - it might be best if you take a car savvy person with you to help point things out...

much luck
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yjs
Shinobu Nagumo


Joined: 28 Aug 2003
Posts: 447
Location: Brisbane, Australia

PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2008 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Slykura wrote:

I highly recommend you AVOID Nissan Pulsars like the plague. The only good one ever built was the SSS and they are rather old these days. They're suspension is crap too.


What what? The N13-15 Pulsars are considered to be very solid small cars with decent performance! They will definitely give any Toyota/Mitsubishi/etc equivalent a good run for their money. I've owned a N14 and currently own a 99 N15 SSS and they are bloody quick for the price.

A decent condition N14 (91-95) SSS wouldn't be more than 5-7k, they have the SR20DE engine and are very easy to work on. So if you want something with a little bit of go, go for that.
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Phoenix85
Ryuk


Joined: 02 May 2005
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Location: Hay, hell & booligal, the nasty end of nowhere...

PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2008 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Slykura wrote:
Either way I really wouldn't spend less than 10,000 on a car. buying a car that's sub 5000 is asking for trouble. You will find that most of them will be third hand rather than second hand, this will mean that you'll be spending more money on it in the long run. A higher initial cost will always benefit you in the long run.

There is truth in this man's words. My car was bought at 6.5K (twisted their arms down from 7.5, and managed to get insurance thrown in) and we think I'm the 6th owner, however spending more money isn't always an option (especially if you're a student or just starting out). Still, there are some good cars out there in the 7-8K range, I never look at anything advertised for less, because you get what you pay for.

Tachikoma wrote:
[..]
I can mostly speak for the Civic range - the thing you should look out for with those models is the CV joints. They are expensive to replace, even for old cars.

QFT. actually some older models can be more expensive, as parts may be harder to track down, or not made in quantity anymore.

Tachikoma wrote:
[..]
If you hear or feel knock(s) as you take a u-turn, then it might be a CV joint problem

It was described to me as a "grinding" but basically, any sound that is just...wrong when you're turning (and you should be on full lock to test this btw) get the cv's checked.

Tachikoma wrote:
[..]
A single CV joint can be anywhere between $300 and $500 to replace... I know too many people who got shafted because of this. This goes for other makes and models, too - particularly front wheel drives.

Actually they can work out to a total of upwards of $1500 once you factor in labour, as well as the parts (cv's, and the boots as well). This is also an issue in 4WDs, particularly the older "compact" 4WDs (suzuki, sierra/vitara etc) and even many new utes (our newer Hilux has cv's).


I can't speak for any of the models you've listed, but when we were buying my first car (early 2004, after several years of driving my brother's car (Kingswood HQ) and various farm utes (HiLux, Landcruiser, etc)) I knew I wanted something small, light and that I could take damn near everywhere, which left Subaru Brumbies and Suzuki 4WD's. (Have you ever driven a Brumby? I highly recommend the experience, it feels like you're sitting 6 inches off the road and 80 k's feels like 180) In the end, after a day down here in Adelaide looking at various Vitaras we ended up taking home the car I have now, an '89 Suzuki Vitara JLX. Most of the issues I've had with it have been superficial (and it uses oil but it's an old car that's been driven halfway across the countryside several times), such as the battery box being rusted away to nothing...but anyway the biggest issue I've had with it have been things like the timing belt (prior mechanic did a dodgy, but i got to my mechanic no worries) and, more recently, the clutch, but I'm pretty sure that was original parts too.

Overall, Suzi's live up to their reputation of being damn near indestructable and reliable (incedentally I can also vouch for HiLux's being "unbreakable"...but that's another story). A car like mine is good for small people, but if you're tall or just generally built bigger than an average, say, Japanese person, you may want to look at something bigger, because they are built very compact, I'm comfortable in the driver's seat, but my brother (he's pretty tall) hates my car.
Again, with the Suzi 4WDs you've got to watch out for the cv's. To test them in these cars, they must be in 4WD, with the hubs locked in and either in high or low range. If they make any sort of noise or grinding you need new cv's and maybe you should look at a different car.


...Oh, and try not to buy a soft-top. They're easy to break into (all you need is a stanley knife) and they're cold and damp in winter and hot and dusty in summer.

kbz333 wrote:
always and i mean ALWAYS check round the front and back windows (the rubbers) leaks/cracks/etc, rust under the carpet in the boot - and for holes too...rust along the top of the doors (those silver edging things Embarassed ) and don't ever fall for the "it's only ever been owned by an old lady" story...
inside the car doors too - basically you have to give it a thorough going over - it might be best if you take a car savvy person with you to help point things out...

much luck


QFT!! especially the part about having a car-savvy friend along, you can also get companies like the RAA to inspect the car for you, before you buy. Also make sure that you take it for a test drive, and NEVER buy the first car you look at. Take at least an entire day to shop around and look at as many different models as you can, and if you're not sure, don't buy it (at least, not straight away).
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Nadesico Man
Motoko Kusanagi


Joined: 07 Oct 2001
Posts: 861
Location: Wyong NSW Australia

PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 6:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Firstly SSS Pulsars are AWSOME cars.. handle like a dream and with the power of the SR20DE make them a really little powerful car... Hence why i got one but mines a N15 SSS S2 Razz A few cheap mods make good power from them and are fairly easy to do a U12-13 SR20DE-T conversion to.
But they are around 10K+
If you want power for 5k id highly reckomend a AE92 SX Corolla.. i used to have one and man they are a great sporty, good looking, powerful little car.. and for 5k you might be lucky and get one with a GZE or 20V... I just sold my AE93SX Hatch with a AE101 4AGZE with Microtech ecu and a list of mods as long as ya arm for 5.5k and their was nothing wrong with it....
Iv had both 4age and 4agze and for their price they are unreal little cars.. Easy to mod and get good power from them..
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Grand Master 67
Tina Foster


Joined: 29 Apr 2001
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 08, 2008 1:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
best thing to do is get racq to come and have a look at any car you are looking at buying.

(or whatever they call racq in whichever state you are in).
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Mr Waffle
TEH WAFFLES!!11!


Joined: 18 Aug 2003
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 08, 2008 4:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
NRMA in the eastern states. You can get a roadworthy certificate for... $150 I think? I dunno, never done it. But from I'm told it's a smart move not only to check the car out, but find out the owner's honestly- if they refuse to get their car checked out, you know they're trying to offload a lemon. If you're serious about buying the car, tell them you'll pay for the inspection on top of the car's price, assuming it passes.
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Space Samurai
Minawa Andou


Joined: 23 Aug 2002
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 2:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I recommend a Honda Civic 5th Gen or Corolla for that price.

I sold my 5th Gen Civic for $6700 a year ago and that was a 1995 model GLi. I never had a single problem with it. They still fetch a good price due to the build quality and reliability of them.

Go with the VTi version if you can find one in good nick at the right price.

http://www.redbookasiapacific.com/au/home.php - this site is good for checking the average value of cars
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Renton7
Mayuko Chigasaki


Joined: 20 Sep 2007
Posts: 909
Location: Area 11 (Western Sydney, Australia)

PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 9:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Thanks for all your help people. But I would like to announce I own my very first car. It's a Nissan Pulsar Q model, 1994, Hatchback, Manual. Set me back $3200, not a bad buy considering what everyone suggested as a basic price. It runs well and is quite, has a good clutch, and was obviously well looked after.

Now definately no Anime for a while...Well after Supanova haha. Got rego, insurance and petrol to worry about.

So once again thanks for everyone help. I'm not going to close this thread or request it. People may use this as a meeting point for new car buyers or general questions about first cars. Very Happy
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beardedgeek
Shana


Joined: 16 Jul 2003
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 12:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
StorminNorman wrote:
If it were up to me, I'd recommend against front-wheel drive at all. Unfortunately it's impossible to get a small hatch that's also RWD unless you start heading back into the early-mid 1980s at the latest, and even then you'll be charged through the nose for one.

Demand for RWD small cars is high because they are <s>awesome hoonmobiles</s> known for their exceptional handling. I heard a rumour last year that Toyota may reintroduce a RWD Corolla, though. That would be pretty fun.


do you have a licence or a car?

Mr Waffle wrote:

NRMA in the eastern states. You can get a roadworthy certificate for... $150 I think? I dunno, never done it. But from I'm told it's a smart move not only to check the car out, but find out the owner's honestly- if they refuse to get their car checked out, you know they're trying to offload a lemon. If you're serious about buying the car, tell them you'll pay for the inspection on top of the car's price, assuming it passes.


racv in vic do this too, you can sometimes convince the seller to spilt the costs, if you decide not to buy they can still show it to other buyers.

Did the op end up having this done?

if you don't buy from a dealer ( with a warranty and cond. report) then it's pretty much essential.

5k buys you a decent first car if you don't mind a get about not a "fancy" car.

Just remember older cars need to be checked reguarly if you want them to last for a while so make sure you know how to check on the oil and water for the car.
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Tachikoma
Shiki Tohno


Joined: 21 Aug 2003
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 2:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Phoenix85 wrote:
Actually they can work out to a total of upwards of $1500 once you factor in labour, as well as the parts (cv's, and the boots as well). This is also an issue in 4WDs, particularly the older "compact" 4WDs (suzuki, sierra/vitara etc) and even many new utes (our newer Hilux has cv's).

For my car, it cost me $600 for both wheels, so I was lucky. Knowing the mechanic* helped. Wink






*R.I.P. Sad
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Phoenix85
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2008 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Mate's rates are always handy. It's how I can get a full service on my car much cheaper than I otherwise would. the reason I said $1500 is because that's what we were quoted when we were shopping for my car. It was a toss-up between one from a dealer and a private sale, dad noticed the boots on the private one were shot and we rang to get a quote on replacing the cv's and that's what we ended up with.

I didn't buy that car. Bought the other one which has hardly missed a beat in 4 years and 40-odd thousand K's that I've done in it. Except that it uses oil, but that's something I can live with, just need to keep an eye on it is all (especially since the oil warning light doesn't work....)
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